How to kill your lawn and start over with new grass
First, try to avoid spraying chemicals on lawns and lawn soil to kill everything, as these are harmful to our river and stream habitats.
There are isolated exceptions when we break our rule but generally, we’d suggest stripping off the old grass with a sod cutter and exposing the underlying soil to start from scratch. While doing this, be careful of underlying tree roots.
If herbicides are your only option we recommend Killzall by Hi-Yield, by following their simple instructions, you should receive a clean slate to work with.
Key factors in the success of your new lawn will be:
- Choosing the correct grass type based on how much sunlight your lawn will receive year-round
- Willingness to correct any soil deficiencies before planting
What’s the best time of year to start over?
Between August and October 1st is the ideal time. Next best would be late in the spring before deciduous trees complete their leaf out.
Should you test your lawn soil before you replant?
Yes. This is the only way to accurately know what state of health your soil is in and what exactly is needed to bring it into balance so that your new lawn thrives. A pH test (such as Rapidtest) is an easy and inexpensive way to see what your soil is missing. In the Portland area, most soil needs lime to balance out high acid levels. Visit us at our Portland garden center and we’ll test your soil for you.
Fescue blend grass. Image courtesy of Great Basin Seeds
What’s the best grass type to plant in the Portland area?
A grass that thrives in full to partial sun, and is adapted for high use (though requiring more care) is a ryegrass blend. For moderate to low sun, lower use, while needing less water and care, use a fescue blend.
Our landscape design team can make your grass green, and your yard a dream!
Call to schedule an appointment: 503-256-2223
A customer at our Portland garden center in the Raleigh Hills neighborhood walked in the other day quite distraught. Earlier in the spring, she had purchased a rose fertilizer developed by the Portland Rose Society from us.
In the past, she had always bought the conventional form of it directly from the Society, but this time, she had bought the organic version, and she was not pleased.
Fuzzy Rose Mold?
Something that seemed like “rose mold” had developed on the soil surface wherever she had used this fertilizer. She even brought us a sample to see. She said her roses looked fine but requested a refund for what was left in the bag.
if you’ve ever bought plants from a nursery, you might have noticed this white stuff on the bottom. Don’t remove it!
We were all mystified. We had never seen this kind of thing before and refunded her money. But I was still curious, so I called the Rose Society to find out if they had seen or heard about this phenomenon from other rose growers. Indeed they had! In fact, the rosarian on the other end started laughing!
It turns out that the fuzzy stuff was simply mycorrhizae doing its thing, except in overdrive. Mycorhizzae is a naturally existing fungus that has existed in soils for over 450 million years. It forms a symbiotic relationship with plant root systems, and essentially extends the plant’s nutritional network, boosting its ability to absorb water, key nutrients, and trace minerals.
Usually, this network is hidden underneath the soil surface. In our customer’s case, it had continued expanding above ground – manifesting itself with this white fuzz. Long story short – prolific mychorrhizae is exceptionally good news for your garden.
image courtesy of wikipedia.org
The world’s mycorrhizae networks are easily disrupted by construction, or even just digging. It is often completely disabled by industrial farming practices or the addition of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.
The Benefits of Mycorrhizae Mold On Soil
Mycorrhizae boosts the plant’s immune system, and strengthens its chances of prosperous survival.
Per our amused rosarian – the addition of mycorrhizae to the custom rose fertilizer was the main reason the organic variety cost more than the conventional.
If you ever observe a fuzzy substance like the one in the photo growing near the roots of your roses – you will be prepared to treat it like the gift it is! 🙂
We often get asked: “What plants do well in a coastal situation?”
Having just returned from a week on the southern Oregon coast, I had the time and opportunity to see for myself, and am happy to share some good options.
Here in western Oregon we have what is usually referred to as a Mediterranean climate, meaning mild winters and warm, dry summers.
As any gardener here knows, the possibilities to grow interesting, unique, and fabulous plants here are nearly endless. On the coast, there are three additional important factors to keep in mind that might make beach plants and coastal gardening challenging.
To my mind, these factors render coastal conditions even more truly Mediterranean than our more forgiving inland version.
The three factors of the coastal challenge:
- High and frequent winds
- Often sandy, fast-draining soils
- Salt – both in the air and often in the groundwater
Because of the less extreme temperature fluctuations near large bodies of water, you can also often push your boundaries with beach plants a little more than you can farther inland, which is always fun! 🙂 As a result of this, you will, for example, see Phormiums at the coast of a size you hardly ever see in Portland.
And I’ll bet coastal gardeners have never even heard of a “Phormium winter” like we experience in Portland from time to time, when all our lovingly tended New Zealand flax dies.
This Phormium is in bloom, which is another feature we don’t often see in Portland. It is of an entirely different proportion than its inland brothers and sisters.
The windy coastal conditions creates a need for screening. Here, the evergreen density of Escallonia is put to work to create shelter from the breezy barrages so often experienced on seaside properties.
3. Climbing Roses, Agapanthus, Sedums, Zauschneria, Cistus
Climbing roses, Bergenia, Agapanthus, Sedums, Zauschneria, Cistus and ornamental grasses accompany the dark foliage of the ornamental cherries anchoring this coastal cottage garden.
There is a decidedly Californian flair over this seaside, streetside garden – Leucadendron, Parahebe perfoliata, Phormium, ornamental grasses, Ilex, etc. The large Rhododendrons in the background give a nod to a more traditional Oregon plant palette.
Hebes is a great alternative – here seen with a wind-whipped Pine. The general rule of thumb when it comes to Hebe varieties is that the smaller the leaf, the hardier they are.
6. Coastal Hebes
Since you can push the envelope in milder coastal climates, you can get away with using showier, larger-leaved varieties. Hebes are evergreen and bloom for a long time, with white, pink, or purple blossoms. They are quintessential west coach beach plants.
7. Erigeron and Agapanthus
Erigeron is a tough, pretty, mounding plant that blooms for a long time with small, daisy-like flowers. Here placed in front of a row of Agapanthus.
Succulents are a fantastic option! Agaves, Sedum, and Sempervivum all perform fantastically. Here is the hot pink Delosperma planted with pink Seathrift (Armeria) that has mostly finished blooming.
9. Sedums and Sempervivums
These incredibly exposed wild succulents were growing on a vertical rock face out in the ocean. These are a mix of Sedums and Sempervivums.
Eucalyptus is a perfect evergreen tree for fast-draining soils. The leaves might turn red when heat stressed.
Conifers often do well on the coast. Junipers, Pines, and Cypresses are common. Here is the free-form silhouette of a conifer paired with a more formally clipped broadleaf evergreen shrub and the sky blue rounds of the Agapanthus.
12. Exposed Pines
These exposed Pines put up a constant battle against the Western winds of the Pacific Ocean. As you can see, wind is a major factor in seaside gardens. Use the lee side of your house to your advantage to cultivate your less sturdy plants.
The dramatic foliage of an Echium is a great addition to any garden, but be sure to put it in a less windy spot to ensure its towering flowers do not collapse.
Rosemary does phenomenally well on the coast. After all, it is a Mediterranean plant in a very Mediterranean climate.
Hydrangeas do great on the coast. This one is on the lee side of a building with an eastern exposure, but normally this would be a great spot for a Hydrangea, but this one is looking rather sad. Hydrangeas are thirsty plants and love ample moisture. If you plant them in fast-draining soils, you need to provide them enough water to look their best. You can see from the crispy mopheads that the above Hydrangea is not entirely happy. 🙁
16. Cordyline Australis
You can tell that these photos are from the southern Oregon coast, as some of the plants are decidedly Californian in stature. Here are a couple of mature Cordyline Australis – the likes of which you may not readily see on the northern coast. Yuccas might be a good alternative in those colder areas.
17. California Poppies
A little past their prime, but still lovely, tough-as-nails California poppies adorn the seaside landscape. It doesn’t get much better than that!
Roses, Crocosmias, Agastache, Ceanothus, Achillea, Salal, Lavender, Santolina, Cannas, Poppies, … the list of tough, excellent, salt-tolerant plants is a long one. You can find an excellent list here. Hopefully, this post will give you some ideas of what might work where you are. We are always available to answer more questions. Just stop by our Portland garden center in the Raleigh Hills neighborhood.