High & Low Light Houseplant Guide

High & Low Light Houseplant Guide




Chinese Evergreen – Aglaonema
Ivy – Algerian/English
Lucky Bamboo
Maidenhair Fern
Parlor Palm – Chamaedorea elegans
Peace Lily – Spathiphyllum
Ponytail Palm – Beaucarnia recurvate
Pothos – Epipremnum
Prayer Plant – Maranta leuconera
Rex Begonia
Snake Plant – Sansevieria
Spider Plant – Chlorophytum comosum
ZZ Plant – Zamioculcus zamilifolia



African Violet – Saintpaulia
Asparagus Fern
Boston Fern – Nephrolepis exaltata
Flamingo Flower – Anthurium
Lady Palm – Rhapis Palm
Spider Plant – Chlorophytum comosum
Spiderwort – Tradescantia
Staghorn Fern – Platycereum bifurcatum



Aloe Vera
Areca Palm – Dypsis lutescens
Burro Tail – Sedum morganainum
China Doll – Radermachera
Fiddle Leaf Fig – Ficus lyrata
Florist Gardenia
Jade – Crassula ovata
Money Tree – Pachira aquatica
Norfolk Pine – Auraucaria heterophylla
Ponytail Palm – Beaucarnea recurvata
Pothos – Epipremnum
Rubber Tree – Ficus Elastica
Sago Palm – Cycas revoluta
Snake Plant – Sansavieria
Spiderwort – Tradescantia
String of Pearls,Hearts, Dolphins – Senecio
Weeping Fig – Ficus Benjamina
Zebra Haworthia
ZZ Plant – Zamioculcus zamifolia


Aloe Vera
Chinese Evergreen – Aglaonema
Dragon Tree – Dracaena marginata
Ivy – Algerian/English
Lady Palm – Rhapis palm
Snake Plant – Sansevieria
Parlor Palm – Chamaedorea elegans
Peace Lily – Spathiphyllum
Pothos – Epipremnum
Rubber Tree – Ficus Elastica
Spider Plant – Chlorophytum comosum

Houseplant 101

Houseplant 101


4 Important Elements of Houseplant Care


Considering the natural lighting of your home is a great place to start when buying indoor plants. Each window will offer different lighting and a plant that will thrive in one window may suffer in another. Knowing the direction each window faces before you set foot in a plant shop will keep you from buying the first plant that catches your eye!

North-facing windows never see the sun’s rays and windows with obstructing views of the sky can make some rooms uninhabitable. Low light tolerant plants can survive in a room where a book can be read with the lights off. In these rooms, plants shouldn’t be placed more than four feet away from a window. If a plant is suffering from lack of light it will begin to lean towards the nearest light source, becoming leggy and unhealthy.

Plants for LOW LIGHT

East-facing windows provide mellow morning sun, while southern windows offer bright reflective light throughout the day. Calathea, Maranta “prayer plants,” and most ferns will thrive in east-facing windows. South-facing windows are beneficial for almost all indoor plants as they provide the most reflective light throughout the day and are best for sustaining large houseplants. A great rule of thumb, when placing plants that need bright indirect light, is making sure the plant can “see the sky.”

Plants for Moderate Light

Cacti and succulents prefer a hot west-facing window that gets plenty of afternoon sun. While this window can be great for a wide range of indoor plants, be careful not to put sensitive plants directly in the sun’s rays. Philodendrons, ferns, and other plants can scorch if they are placed directly in a west-facing window.

Plants for High Light


Image of houseplants in a room

Feeling the soil before you water, and watering thoroughly is key! During the spring and summer your tropical plants and ferns will likely need water weekly, but be sure to always check the soil first! Check for moisture by feeling an inch down into the soil for tropical plants, a half-inch for ferns, and for cacti and succulents the soil should be completely dry all the way through before watering. If your plant is moist to the touch, refrain from watering and check it again the following week.

When you do water, water thoroughly making sure to cover the entire surface area. Water until the pot drains. You can do this twice if the plant is in a porous pot and is placed outside to drain. Pots should always have drainage and a tray to capture excess water if watered indoors. This keeps the plant’s roots from sitting in standing water which will cause rot. If you do have a pot without drainage, it is best to nest the nursery pot of the plant into the container rather than transplanting.


Pests are usually a sign that a plant is experiencing stress from lack of light or improper watering. Plants, like people, need to be in good health to ward off infections.

The most common houseplant pests include mealybugs, spider mites, fungus gnats, aphids, thrips and scale. Treatments can be very effective as long as the bugs are detected quickly. Many of these pests are extremely vigilant and are hard to defeat once they have spread.

Checking for pests weekly can save you from having to treat your entire collection of houseplants for weeks due to an undetected pest! When watering, take extra time to look the plant over for any possible infection. Knowing a few of their favorite hiding spots will give you the ability to check quickly and prevent large outbreaks. The most common forms of treatment include foliar spray and systemic mixes. It is best to use organic sprays and solutions. Systemic mixes (usually powder) can be added straight to the soil and watered in. This treatment boosts the plant’s defenses as it is absorbed through the roots and makes the plant itself lethal to unwanted guests.

Mealybug pest to indoor plants

Mealybug is a fuzzy white insect that leaches nutrients from the plant’s leaves, stems, and any nook and cranny it can fit itself into. Dabbing the insect with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol is the best form of topical treatment. Spraying with Neem oil is another effective treatment. Treat mealy every three days for nine days, and be sure to give your plant a good rinse so alcohol isn’t left on the leaves or stems. After the mealy has cleared up, be sure to check the plant for any new outbreaks over the next several weeks.

Spider mites are a pest to indoor plants

Spider mites are a lot smaller and can spread very quickly if not stopped early enough. You can usually find them hiding in small webbing on the underside of leaves, down the leaf’s center or midrib, and between petioles (where the leaf and stem meet). The infected plant should be treated twice a week for 3 to 4 weeks. These bugs can be taken care of with an organic foliar spray specifically for spider mites, or systemic treatment. This pest is common among Scheffleras and Calatheas.

Fungus gnats are a pest to indoor plants

Fungus gnats are tiny flies that favor damp soil. The larva of this pest is the real predator as it feeds on roots beneath the soil. To kill the larvae make sure to let the infected plant’s soil dry several inches deep. Larvae cannot survive without moisture. To get rid of the pesky flies, set a small sticky trap on the surface of the soil. By allowing the soil to dry and using a sticky trap the files should dissipate in roughly 2 weeks.

Aphids are a pest to indoor plants

Aphids normally appear on the plant’s leaves and stems. These bugs come in a variety of different colors including green, white, yellow, and black. Aphids reproduce quickly and can infest your plant within a few days. Spray these pests with Bonide insecticidal soap, or hose off the foliage until the bugs are dislodged.

Scale are a pest to indoor plants

Scale is a hard-bodied insect that sucks sap from the veins and stems of the plant. Due to its protective shell, this bug is relatively hard to kill. Like most pests, if caught early enough the infected plant can recover quickly. These bugs can be removed with a soft brush or by hand. Systemic treatment can aid in the defense as long as the infestation is minor. These pests are persistent, so check your plant for several weeks after removal for any new outbreak.

Thrips are a pest to indoor plants

Thrips like fungus gnats are the most damaging to plants while in the larva phase. These larvae, however, favor the foliage of the plant. Monstera deliciosa and various philodendrons are the most susceptible, leaving the leaves blotchy and discolored. Use Bpnide insecticidal soap weekly until the larvae are gone. The discoloration is permanent and any scarred leaves should be pruned.


Houseplants in a room

Up-potting and fertilizing are important practices in maintaining the health and longevity of indoor plants. A plant will need to be repotted or “up-potted” when the roots have begun to press around the sides of the pot or grow out the drainage hole in the bottom. To replant, lightly tease the roots, and plant into a pot roughly two inches wider in diameter and depth to prevent root rot. Organic potting soil is great for most houseplants, but if you are replanting cacti or succulents be sure to use a well-draining cactus mix.

Fertilizing your indoor plants can make a huge difference in the spring and summer. Use an organic fertilizer with an NPK of 3-3-3 or below. Generally, cacti and succulents will not need fertilizer, but if the plant is in a bright west-facing window and the soil is drying quickly, it would be happy to receive an extra boost. You can fertilize these plants with a fertilizer specific to cacti and succulents, or further dilute the one you use for tropical plants.

Knowing these important basics will help you choose the right house plant for your living space, while giving you the confidence to care for and recognize possible health issues. While these houseplant basics will set you up for success, researching further will help you master care for specific plant varieties. We recommend checking out these additional links for more information.

Light Requirements

Rose Mold? No. Mycorrhizae. (It’s a good thing).

Rose Mold? No. Mycorrhizae. (It’s a good thing).

A customer at our Portland garden center in the Raleigh Hills neighborhood walked in the other day quite distraught. Earlier in the spring, she had purchased a rose fertilizer developed by the Portland Rose Society from us.

In the past, she had always bought the conventional form of it directly from the Society, but this time, she had bought the organic version, and she was not pleased.


Fuzzy Rose Mold?

Something that seemed like “rose mold” had developed on the soil surface wherever she had used this fertilizer. She even brought us a sample to see. She said her roses looked fine but requested a refund for what was left in the bag.


if you’ve ever bought plants from a nursery, you might have noticed this white stuff on the bottom. Don’t remove it!


We were all mystified. We had never seen this kind of thing before and refunded her money. But I was still curious, so I called the Rose Society to find out if they had seen or heard about this phenomenon from other rose growers. Indeed they had! In fact, the rosarian on the other end started laughing!


Marvelous Mycorrhizae

It turns out that the fuzzy stuff was simply mycorrhizae doing its thing, except in overdrive. Mycorhizzae is a naturally existing fungus that has existed in soils for over 450 million years. It forms a symbiotic relationship with plant root systems, and essentially extends the plant’s nutritional network, boosting its ability to absorb water, key nutrients, and trace minerals.

Usually, this network is hidden underneath the soil surface. In our customer’s case, it had continued expanding above ground – manifesting itself with this white fuzz. Long story short – prolific mychorrhizae is exceptionally good news for your garden.



image courtesy of wikipedia.org


The world’s mycorrhizae networks are easily disrupted by construction, or even just digging. It is often completely disabled by industrial farming practices or the addition of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.


The Benefits of Mycorrhizae Mold On Soil

Mycorrhizae boosts the plant’s immune system, and strengthens its chances of prosperous survival.

Per our amused rosarian – the addition of mycorrhizae to the custom rose fertilizer was the main reason the organic variety cost more than the conventional.

If you ever observe a fuzzy substance like the one in the photo growing near the roots of your roses – you will be prepared to treat it like the gift it is! 🙂



17 Beautiful Beach Plants for Coastal Living

17 Beautiful Beach Plants for Coastal Living

We often get asked: “What plants do well in a coastal situation?” 

Having just returned from a week on the southern Oregon coast, I had the time and opportunity to see for myself, and am happy to share some good options. 

Here in western Oregon we have what is usually referred to as a Mediterranean climate, meaning mild winters and warm, dry summers. 

As any gardener here knows, the possibilities to grow interesting, unique, and fabulous plants here are nearly endless. On the coast, there are three additional important factors to keep in mind that might make beach plants and coastal gardening challenging. 

To my mind, these factors render coastal conditions even more truly Mediterranean than our more forgiving inland version.


The three factors of the coastal challenge:


  1. High and frequent winds
  2. Often sandy, fast-draining soils
  3. Salt – both in the air and often in the groundwater


Because of the less extreme temperature fluctuations near large bodies of water, you can also often push your boundaries with beach plants a little more than you can farther inland, which is always fun! 🙂 As a result of this, you will, for example, see Phormiums at the coast of a size you hardly ever see in Portland. 

And I’ll bet coastal gardeners have never even heard of a “Phormium winter” like we experience in Portland from time to time, when all our lovingly tended New Zealand flax dies.


phormium plants blowing in the beach wind1. Phormiums

This Phormium is in bloom, which is another feature we don’t often see in Portland. It is of an entirely different proportion than its inland brothers and sisters.

Escallonia flowers on the beach2. Escallonia

The windy coastal conditions creates a need for screening. Here, the evergreen density of Escallonia is put to work to create shelter from the breezy barrages so often experienced on seaside properties.

Bergenia, Agapanthus, Sedums, Zauschneria, Cistus beach coastal garden living3. Climbing Roses, Agapanthus, Sedums, Zauschneria, Cistus

Climbing roses, Bergenia, Agapanthus, Sedums, Zauschneria, Cistus and ornamental grasses accompany the dark foliage of the ornamental cherries anchoring this coastal cottage garden.

flowers on sidewalk beach town coastal living4. Leucadendron

There is a decidedly Californian flair over this seaside, streetside garden – Leucadendron, Parahebe perfoliata, Phormium, ornamental grasses, Ilex, etc. The large Rhododendrons in the background give a nod to a more traditional Oregon plant palette.

Hebes beach plants coastal breeze5. Hebes

Hebes is a great alternative – here seen with a wind-whipped Pine. The general rule of thumb when it comes to Hebe varieties is that the smaller the leaf, the hardier they are.

evergreen blossoms on the oregon coast6. Coastal Hebes

Since you can push the envelope in milder coastal climates, you can get away with using showier, larger-leaved varieties. Hebes are evergreen and bloom for a long time, with white, pink, or purple blossoms. They are quintessential west coach beach plants.

Agapanthus flowers in bloom on the beach7. Erigeron and Agapanthus

Erigeron is a tough, pretty, mounding plant that blooms for a long time with small, daisy-like flowers. Here placed in front of a row of Agapanthus.

succulents on the beach thrive well8. Succulents

Succulents are a fantastic option! Agaves, Sedum, and Sempervivum all perform fantastically. Here is the hot pink Delosperma planted with pink Seathrift (Armeria) that has mostly finished blooming.

succulents on the side of a rock on the beach9. Sedums and Sempervivums

These incredibly exposed wild succulents were growing on a vertical rock face out in the ocean. These are a mix of Sedums and Sempervivums.

eucalyptus thrives in wet beach environments10. Eucalyptus

Eucalyptus is a perfect evergreen tree for fast-draining soils. The leaves might turn red when heat stressed.

Agapanthus beach plants beautiful coastal living 11. Junipers

Conifers often do well on the coast. Junipers, Pines, and Cypresses are common. Here is the free-form silhouette of a conifer paired with a more formally clipped broadleaf evergreen shrub and the sky blue rounds of the Agapanthus.

pines on the beach12. Exposed Pines

These exposed Pines put up a constant battle against the Western winds of the Pacific Ocean. As you can see, wind is a major factor in seaside gardens. Use the lee side of your house to your advantage to cultivate your less sturdy plants.

Echium is a great plant that can thrive on the beach13. Echium

The dramatic foliage of an Echium is a great addition to any garden, but be sure to put it in a less windy spot to ensure its towering flowers do not collapse.

rosemary does remarkably well on the coast14. Rosemary

Rosemary does phenomenally well on the coast. After all, it is a Mediterranean plant in a very Mediterranean climate.

beautiful hydrangeas do great on the coast15. Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas do great on the coast. This one is on the lee side of a building with an eastern exposure, but normally this would be a great spot for a Hydrangea, but this one is looking rather sad. Hydrangeas are thirsty plants and love ample moisture. If you plant them in fast-draining soils, you need to provide them enough water to look their best. You can see from the crispy mopheads that the above Hydrangea is not entirely happy. 🙁 

Cordyline Astralis is a california beach plant that exists in southern oregon16. Cordyline Australis

You can tell that these photos are from the southern Oregon coast, as some of the plants are decidedly Californian in stature. Here are a couple of mature Cordyline Australis – the likes of which you may not readily see on the northern coast. Yuccas might be a good alternative in those colder areas.

california poppies look beautiful on this waterfront property17. California Poppies

A little past their prime, but still lovely, tough-as-nails California poppies adorn the seaside landscape. It doesn’t get much better than that!

Roses, Crocosmias, Agastache, Ceanothus, Achillea, Salal, Lavender, Santolina, Cannas, Poppies, … the list of tough, excellent, salt-tolerant plants is a long one. You can find an excellent list here. Hopefully, this post will give you some ideas of what might work where you are. We are always available to answer more questions. Just stop by our Portland garden center in the Raleigh Hills neighborhood.

Growing Flowers in Your Backyard

Growing Flowers in Your Backyard

Growing a Backyard Bouquet

Flowers add color, cheer, and a sweet aroma to your garden. Being able to have fresh-cut flowers straight from your own garden throughout the season takes planning, but it is worth the investment. Flower bouquets are the perfect gift for special occasions, to lift the spirits of someone who needs some cheer, or to provide natural color in your own home. 

Every Portland landscape has the potential to be a breathtaking scene of color and texture. Our climate allows for lush greens and bright colors to fill the yard all year long. We live in the GREAT Northwest! However for some, choosing which flowers to grow can be intimidating. We have so many great plants to choose from!

Below is a comprehensive list of trees, shrubs, and perennials that produce excellent flowers. It is possible to have fresh flowers in a Portland landscape all summer long when you incorporate some of the plants listed below.

If you have questions about where to get these flowers, call or visit us at our Portland garden center.


Cercis Redbud

Cercis Redbud trees yield absolutely beautiful flowers



  • Cercis – Redbud
  • Cornus – Dogwood
  • Crataegus – Hawthorn
  • Forsythia – Forsythia
  • Prunus – Flowering Cherry
  • Salix – Willow
  • Syringa – Lilac



Berberis Barberry

The Berberis Barberry produces this vibrant red color. Isn’t it beautiful? Image courtesy of commons.wikimedia



  • Berberis – Barberry
  • Buddleia – Butterfly Bush
  • Callicarpa – Beautyberry
  • Caryopteris – Bluebeard
  • Cornus sericea – Red osier Dogwood
  • Corylus – Walking Stick
  • Cotinus – Smokebush
  • Exochorda – Pearlbush
  • Hamamelis – Witch Hazel
  • Hydrangea – Hydrangea
  • Ilex – Winterberry
  • Salix – Willow
  • Sympor. – Snowberry
  • Syringa – Lilac
  • Rosa – Rose


Achillea Yarrow

Achillea Yarrow




  • Achillea – Yarrow
  • Aconitum – Monks Hood
  • Agapanthus – Lily of the Valley
  • Agastache – Hyssop
  • Alcea – Hollyhock
  • Alchemilla – Lady’s Mantle
  • Alstromeria – Mugwort
  • Anemone – Anemone
  • Aquilegia – Columbine
  • Artemiesia – Mugwort
  • Aster – Aster
  • Astilbe – Astilbe
  • Astrantia – Masterwort
  • Baptisia – False Indigo
  • Boltonia – False Starwort
  • Catanache – Cupids Dart
  • Centaurea – Bachelors Button
  • Centranthus – Red Valerian
  • Chrysanthemums – Mums
  • Campanula – Cup and Saucer
  • Coreopsis – Tickseed
  • Crocosmia – Crocosmia
  • Delphinium – Larkspur
  • Dianthus – Pinks
  • Dicentra – Bleeding Heart
  • Digitalis – Foxglove
  • Doronicum – Leopards Bane
  • Echinacea – Cone Flower
  • Echinops – Globe Thistle
  • Engeron – Flea Bane
  • Eryngium – Sea Holly
  • Eupatoium – Mist Flower
  • Euphorbia – Spurge
  • Gaillardia – Blanket Flower
  • Gaura – Windflower
  • Geum – Lady Stratheden
  • Gypsophilia – Baby’s Breath
  • Helenium – Helen’s Flower
  • Helianthus – Sun Flower
  • Heliopsis – Ox-eyed Daisy
  • Helleborus – Lenten Rose

These beauties flower early in the Spring, and their nodding blooms are sublimely beautiful. A few of our favorite varieties for Portland landscaping are Ivory Prince, Pink Frost, Double Queen & Royal Heritage.

  • Heuchera – Coral Bells
  • Hosta – Hosta
  • Iris – Iris
  • Jean May Camellia
Jean May Camellia

This Camellia has soft pink flowers and deep green glossy leaves. It is a brilliant flowering shrub that can be used as a backdrop in landscaping or as a hedge/screen


  • Knautia – Knautia
  • Lavendula – Lavender
  • Leucanthemum – Shasta Daisy



This is a classic shasta daisy that doesn’t need staking and is generally trouble free. It offers a lovely pop of white and is such a happy flower!

  • Liatris – Gayfeather
  • Lilium – Lily
  • Limonium – Statice
  • Lupinus – Lupine
  • Malva – Mallow
  • Monarda – Bee Balm
  • Kalmia latifolia – Mountain Laurel



With its glossy leaves and cheery flower clusters, Little Linda is a great addition to any landscape! It is a dwarf plant reaching its maximum size at just 3’ x 3’ making it easy to use in smaller residential lots.


  • Nepeta – Catmint
  • Papaver – Poppy
  • Penstemon – Beards Tongue
  • Peony – Peony
  • Perovskia – Russian Sage
  • Platycodon – Balloon Flower
  • Phlox – Phlox
  • Physostegia – Dragons Head
  • Rudbeckia – Black Eyed Susan
  • Ruta – Rue
  • Salvia – Flowering Sage
  • Scabiosa – Pincushion Flower
  • Solidago – Golden Rod
  • Stokesia – Stokes Aster
  • Thalictrum – Meadow Rue
  • Trollius – Globe Flower
  • Veronica – Veronica
  • Zanteaeschia – Calla Lily
Ideal Plants for Your Climate

Ideal Plants for Your Climate

A successful garden starts out with a good garden plan. Haphazardly throwing plants, trees, and shrubs together without a well-informed plan can be a recipe for disaster.

Understanding your local climate is essential to solid garden planning. In the beautiful Pacific Northwest that we call home, we frequently receive questions about plants that do well in the moist environment of the Portland area. But the Northwest presents a wide range of climates from the high deserts of Bend to the mild coastal regions of Seaside. Following are some ideas to help your garden planning process, no matter what type of conditions you might live in. We carry many of these in our Portland garden center.


Plants for Wet Areas 


Garden Planning with Wet Soil Plants


The following is a comprehensive list of trees, shrubs, perennials, grasses, and all-around wet soil plants. Most every Portland landscape has a need for a few plants that thrive in moist soil. Here are several to choose from!


Trees for Wet Areas



Acer Rubrum Red Maple


  • Acer rubrum – Red Maple

  • Acer saccharinum – Silver Maple

  • Alnus – Alder

  • Betula nigra – River Birch

  • Fraxinus latifolia – Oregon Ash

  • Larix – Larch

  • Liquidamber stryaciflua – Sweetgum

  • Lirodendron – Tulip Tree

  • Malus – Crabapple

  • Magnolia virginiana – Sweet Bay

  • Metasequoia glyptostoboides – Dawn Redwood

  • Nyssa slyvantica – Sourgum

  • Picea sitchensis – Sitka Spruce

  • Platanus – Poplar

  • Quercus bicolor – Swamp White Oak

  • Quercus palustris – Pin Oak

  • Salix – Willow

  • Taxodium distichum – Bald Cypress

  • Thuja plicata – Western Red Cedar


Shrubs For Wet Areas


Andromeda Polifolia - Bog Rosemary

Andromeda Polifolia – Bog Rosemary


  • Andromeda polifolia – Bog Rosemary

  • Ardisia japonica – Japanese Ardisia

  • Aronia arbutifolia – Chokeberry

  • Calycanthus – Spice Bush

  • Chaenomeles – Flowering Quince

  • Cornus stolonifera – Red-Osier Dogwood

  • Ilex glabra – Inkberry

  • Ilex virginica – Sweetspire

  • Leucothoe fontanesiana – Drooping Leucothoe

  • Lindera benzoin – Spice Bush

  • Lonicera involucrate – Twinberry

  • Myrica pensylvanica – Bayberry

  • Rosa palustris – Swamp Rose

  • Salix – Shrub Willow

  • Sambucus Canadensis – Red Elderberry

  • Spirea douglasii – Douglas Spirea

  • Syphoricarpus orbiculatas – Coral Berry

  • Viburnum opulus – Snowball Bush

  • Viburnum trilobum – Cranberry Bush


Perennials For Wet Areas


Aruncus dioicus Goatsbeard

Aruncus dioicus Goatsbeard


  • Aruncus dioicus – Goatsbeard

  • Aster novae-angliae – New England Aster

  • Astilbe – Astilbe

  • Bellis pernnis – English Daisy

  • Caltha palustris – Marsh Marigold

  • Camassia – Camas Lily

  • Canna – Canna Lily

  • Chelone – Turtlehead

  • Cimicifuga – Bugbane

  • Dicentra Formosa – Bleeding Heart

  • Eupatorium maculatum – Joe-Pye Weed

  • Filapendula – Meadow sweet

  • Gunnera – Dinosaur Food

  • Iris – Iris

  • Lilium canadense – Canada Lily

  • Lysimachia – Loosestrife

  • Lobelia cardinalis – Cardinal Lobelia

  • Mentha – Mint

  • Mimulus – Monkey Flower

  • Monarda – Bee Balm

  • Mysosotis – Forget-me-not

  • Polygonatum – Solomans Seal

  • Primula japonica – Japanese Primrose

  • Rodgersia – Rodgersia

  • Schizostylis – Kafir Lily

  • Sisyrichium – Blue-eyed Grass

  • Tolmiea menziesii – Piggyback Plant

  • Trollius – Globeflower

  • Viola – Violet

  • Zantedeschia – Calla Lily


Grasses For Wet Areas


Acorus gramineus Japanese Sweet Flag

Acorus gramineus Japanese Sweet Flag
Image courtesy of Monrovia


  • Acorus gramineus – Japanese Sweet Flag

  • Calamagrostis – Feather Reed Grass

  • Carex – Sedges

  • Chasmanthium latifolium – Northern Sea Oats

  • Deschampsia – Tufted Hair Grass

  • Juncus – Rushes

  • Miscanthus sinensis – Maiden hair Grass

  • Molinia – Moor Grass

  • Panicum virgatum – Switch Grass


Beach Flowers: Garden Planning with Plants that Thrive in a Coastal Environment


Acer ginnala Amur Maple

Acer ginnala Amur Maple


Coastal Trees

  • Acer ginnala – Amur Maple

  • Arbutus menziesii – Pacific Madrone

  • Chamaecyparis lawsoniana – Port Orford Cedar

  • Chamaecyparis obtuse – Hinkoki Cypress

  • Crataegus – Hawthorn

  • Cupressocypraris leylandii – Leyland Cypress

  • Ilex apuifolium – English Holly

  • Laurus nobilis – Bay Laurel

  • Picea sitchensis – Sitka Spruce

  • Pinus contorta – Shore Pine

  • Pinus mugho – Mugo Pine

  • Pinus nigra – Austrian Black Pine

  • Pinus ponderosa – Ponderosa Pine

  • Pinus sylvestris – Scotch Pine

  • Pinus thunbergiana – Japanese Black Pine

  • Prunus – Flowering Cherry

  • Pseudotsuga menziesii – Douglas Fir

  • Robinia – Black Locust

  • Salix discolor/ caprea – Pussy Willow

  • Sequoia sempervirens – Coast Redwood

  • Thuja plicata – Western Red Cedar


Shrubs That Thrive on the Coast


Abelia grandiflora Abelia

Abelia grandiflora Abelia


  • Abelia grandiflora – Abelia

  • Arbutus unedo – Strawberry Bush

  • Aucuba japonica – Aucuba

  • Berberis – Barberry

  • Buxus sempervirens – Boxwood

  • Ceanothus – California Lilac

  • Choisya – Mexican Orange

  • Cistus – Rockrose

  • Cotoneaster – Cotoneaster

  • Cytisus – Broom

  • Eleagnus – Silverberry

  • Erica – Heath

  • Escallonia – Escallonia

  • Euonymus – Euonymus

  • Garrya eliptica – Silktassel

  • Hebe – Hebe

  • Hydrangea – Hydrangea

  • Ilex aquifolium – English Holly

  • Ilex glabra – Inkberry

  • Lonicera pileata – Box Honeysuckle

  • Myrica californica – Pacific Wax Myrtle

  • Potentilla – Potentilla

  • Prunus laurocerasus – English Laurel

  • Prunus lusitanica – Portugal Laurel

  • Punica granatum – Pomegranate

  • Pyracantha – Pyrancantha

  • Rhamnus – Rhamnus

  • Ribes – Flowering Currant

  • Rosa rugosa – Rugosa Rose

  • Rosmarinus officinalis – Rosemary

  • Syringa vulgaris – Lilac

  • Taxus – Yew

  • Vaccinium ovatum – Evergreen Huckleberry

  • Viburnum tinus – Laurestinus Viburnum

  • Yucca – Yucca


Perennials For A Coastal Environment


Achillea Yarrow

Achillea Yarrow


  • Achillea – Yarrow

  • Antennaria – Pussy Toes

  • Arabis – Rockcress

  • Armeria maritima – Sea Thrift

  • Artemisia – Mugwort

  • Bergenia – Bergenia

  • Carex – Sedge

  • Cerastium – Snow in Summer

  • Coreopsis – Tickseed

  • Dianthus – Pinks

  • Echinops – Globe Thistle

  • Festuca – Fescue

  • Gaillardia – Blanket Flower

  • Gypsophilia – Baby’s Breath

  • Fuchsia – Hardy Fuchsia

  • Helianthemum – Rockrose

  • Kniphofia – Red Hot Poker

  • Lavandula – Lavender

  • Limonium – Sea Lavender

  • Santolina – Lavender Cotton

  • Sedum – Sedum

  • Sempervivum – Hens and Chicks

  • Stachys – Lambs Ear

  • Thymus – Thyme


Ground Covers For a Coastal Environment

Arctostaphylos Kinnikinnick

Arctostaphylos Kinnikinnick


  • Arctostaphylos – Kinnikinnick

  • Ceanothus Pt. Reyes – Pt. Reyes CA Lilac

  • Euonymus fortuneii – Euonymus

  • Fragaria chiloensis – Ornam. Strawberry

  • Gautheria shallon – Salal

  • Juniperus – Junipers

  • Lithospernum – Lithodora


Drought Resistant Plants

Following is a collection of trees, shrubs, perennials, grasses, and vines that are drought resistant.


Abies Concolor

Abies Concolor

Drought Resistant Trees

  • Abies concolor

  • Acer campestre

  • Acer ginnala

  • Aesculus

  • Ailanthus altissima

  • Arbutus unedo

  • Calocedrus decurrens

  • Catalpa

  • Cedrus deodara

  • Cedrus atlantica

  • Cercis occidentalis

  • Cornus nuttali*

  • Corylus

  • Cotinus coggyria

  • Crataegus

  • Cupressocyparis leylandii*

  • Eleagnus angustifolia

  • Ficus carica**

  • Fraxinus

  • Ginkgo biloba

  • Gleditsia triancanthos

  • Gymnocladus dioica

  • Juglans

  • Koelreuteria paniculata

  • Lithocarpus densiflorus

  • Maclura pomifera

  • Morus

  • Phellodendron amurense

  • Picea

  • Pinus

  • Platanus acerifolia

  • Pseduotsuga menziesii

  • Quercus

  • Robinia

  • Sequoiandendron gigantica

  • Sophora japonica

  • Sorbus

  • Tilia tomentosum

  • Thuja plicata

  • Umbellularia californica

  • Zelkova serrata


Drought Resistant Shrubs


Acanthus mollis

Acanthus mollis


  • Acanthus mollis

  • Amelanchier alnifolia

  • Aronia

  • Aucuba japonica

  • Berberis

  • Buxus micro jap.

  • Calycanthus occidentalis

  • Camellia japonica

  • Caryopteris clandonensis

  • Ceanothus* **

  • Cerocarpus montanus

  • Chaenomeles

  • Cistus

  • Cotinus coggyria

  • Cotoneaster

  • Cytisus

  • Deutzia

  • Eleagnus

  • Escallonia **

  • Euonymus

  • Forsythia

  • Garrya fremontii

  • Genista

  • Hamamelis

  • Hibiscus syriacus

  • Helianthemum

  • Holidiscus discolor

  • Ilex

  • Kerria japonica

  • Lagerstroemia indica**

  • Ligustrum

  • Mahonia

  • Myrica

  • Nandina

  • Osmanthus**

  • Osmarea burkwoodii

  • Philadelphus

  • Photinia

  • Prunus laurocerasus

  • Punica granatum

  • Pyracantha

  • Rhus

  • Rhamnus

  • Rosa rugosa

  • Skimmia japonica

  • Spirea

  • Symporicarpos

  • Syringa

  • Tamarix pariflora*

  • Taxus*

  • Viburnum lantana


Drought Resistant Perennials





  • Achillea

  • Agapanthus**

  • Allium

  • Antennaria rosea* **

  • Anthemis tinctoria

  • Arenaria montana

  • Artemisia*

  • Asclepias*

  • Baptisia*

  • Bergenia cordifolia

  • Centaurea gymnocarpa**

  • Centranthus rubber

  • Ceratistigma pumbaginoides

  • Convolvulus

  • Coreopsis*

  • Echinacea purpurea*

  • Echinops exaltus*

  • Erysium*

  • Gaillardia grandiflora*

  • Geranium sangiuineum

  • Gypsophilia paniculata*

  • Helenium autumnalis

  • Helleborus

  • Hemerocallis

  • Iris

  • Kniphoia uvaria*

  • Lavandula*

  • Liatris*

  • Limonium*

  • Linum

  • Lychnis*

  • Nepeta

  • Oenothera*

  • Papavera*

  • Penstemon*

  • Perovskia*

  • Phlomis*

  • Polystichmum munitum

  • Romneya*

  • Ruta*

  • Salvia officinalis*

  • Santolina*

  • Saponaria*

  • Sedum*

  • Sisyrinchium

  • Solidago

  • Thymus*

  • Tradescantia

  • Verbascum


Drought Resistant Grasses


Cortaderia selloana

Cortaderia selloana


  • Cortaderia selloana

  • Festuca ovina glauca

  • Calamagrostis

  • Miscanthus

  • Pennisetum*

  • Stipa


Drought Resistant Vines


Clematis Armandi

Clematis Armandi


  • Clematis armandi**

  • Lonicera japonica “Halliana’

  • Wisteria

*These plants will not tolerate heavy clay soils which are water-saturated in the winter.

** These plants are marginally hardy for the Northwest. They will freeze out some years.


A lifelong Oregon resident, Drake has been passionate about plants since childhood, beginning with propagating and growing flowers at his grandfather’s nursery. He opened Drake’s 7 Dees in 1974, while earning degrees in Business and Horticulture from Oregon State University. He later expanded into the design/build side of the industry, allowing him to combine his passion for plants with his love of family by maximizing the quality of family time spent outdoors.

Drake is co-founder of the Oregon Landscape Contractors Association and is a Landscape Industry Certified Manager (LICM)—a designation that less than two percent of landscapers have attained. Additionally, Drake serves on the Board of Directors for the Portland Japanese Gardens, widely regarded as one of the seven best Japanese gardens outside of Japan.

Drake is married to former Oregon Speaker of the House, Lynn Snodgrass. Together, he and Lynn received the Farm Bureau President’s award in 1999 for their service and dedication to agriculture in the state of Oregon. Drake and Lynn have two wonderful daughters, two talented son-in-laws, and seven grandchildren. In his spare time, Drake enjoys camping, water and snow skiing, reading, and of course, gardening.

Born and raised in the Portland Metro Area… Tim has had an appreciation for the outdoors from a young age.  Inspired by our local beauty ranging: the Mt Hood National Forest to salty, sea spray of Cannon Beach, the arid high-desert of Central Oregon to the rugged terrain of Steens Mountain – Tim sought higher education at the University of Idaho in their Landscape Architecture department.  Graduating with honors in 2004, he returned home to establish his professional career.

Now making his home in Sandy, Oregon – Tim and his wife [Nicole] are raising two happy and healthy kiddos and 4 fur-babies.  Between soccer, football, cheerleading, girl scouts and other extra-curricular activities… the Sellin family are heavily involved in their community and church family.  Since college, Tim has spent 13 of his 17 years with Drake’s 7 Dees and has ‘set roots’ in anticipation of long-term growth at the family-focused company.  Having spent his time away from Drake’s in a ‘boots on the ground’ capacity, Tim has fostered a love for the operational/production side of landscape business, as well as the design/sales.

His goal in life as well as business is to put others first.

Bachelor of Science Landscape Architecture, BSLA… 2009
California Polytechnic University, Pomona… Cum Laude
American Society of Landscape Architects – Honor Award

Steven has 15 years of experience in the residential landscape design/build and garden center industry, including 9 years with Drake’s 7 Dees. Steven also has experience working with the National Park Service in Yosemite on sub-alpine restoration projects, as well as volunteer experience as a Peace Corps Volunteer serving the community of Zaouiat d’Ifrane in Morocco.

Together, Steven and his wife Anna have four lovely children, all 5 years old and under! In his (very limited) spare time, Steven enjoys camping, hiking, archery hunting, and cooking. Steven’s passion for his work lies in helping others, through design to envision a more beautiful space that, once built, becomes a reality that improves their quality of life.